Muhammad Mukarram Technical Services L.L.C

Tag Electrical Fittings

Why Use Fire Rated Downlights?

Why does a standard recessed downlight pose a fire risk?

Most premises have fire rated ceilings. Believe it or not, even old house ceilings are fire rated all be it with a single sheet of plasterboard, but this would still give a form of protection. This is the amount of time that a ceiling can hold back the fire before it spreads to the floor above. A fairly typical fire rating for a ceiling is 60 minutes. Of course, when you cut a hole in a ceiling to fit recessed lighting you immediately compromise that ceiling’s integrity. The gaps within the light fitting will now be the ceiling’s weakest point. Flames, smoke and heat will find that gap and pour through it, spreading the fire to the floor above.

Must a ceiling’s integrity be restored after lighting is fitted, or is it optional?

The answer put simply is yes! The Building Regulations 1991 Approved Document B Fire Safety 2000 Edition Section 11.2 (applicable in England and Wales) says: ‘If a fire separating element is to be effective, then every joint or imperfection or opening to allow services to pass through the element, should be adequately protected by sealing or fire-stopping so that the resistance of the element is not impaired.

What do the wiring regulations say?

The IEE Wiring Regulations 16th Edition BS 7671: 2001 Section 527-02-01 says: ‘Where a wiring system passes through elements of building construction such as floors, walls, roofs, ceilings, partitions or cavity barriers, the openings remaining after the passage of the wiring system shall be sealed according to the degree of fire resistance required of the element concerned (if any)’. In other parts of the UK The Building Standards (Scotland) Regulations 1990, Amendment 5, 1999, Technical Standard Part D or The Building Regulations (Northern Ireland) 2000, Technical Booklet E would apply.

How can a ceiling’s rating be restored?

Ideally every luminaire in a recessed light fitting should be fitted with a fire protection cover to BS476: Pt.23.

How can a downlight restore a ceiling’s fire rating?

A fire rated downlight prevents both flames and heat being transmitted through the luminaire up into the ceiling void. Usually these downlighters have a 60 minute rating, which will be in keeping with a typical ceiling fire rating, although the best can last up to two hours.

Please be sure to check your local regulations when fitting downlights.

Source by Elliot Wise

Pipe Insulation for Copper Piping and PEX Piping

Pipe insulation is a great option for plumbing and heating projects whether you are using copper piping or PEX piping. To choose which type of pipe you want to use, you should first learn about the materials that the two pipes are made from.

Copper, an element found in nature, is reddish in color and metallic. It is a rather soft and malleable metal. You may hear about the high thermal or electrical conductivity of copper. That is another way of saying it is a very good conductor of heat and electricity. Silver is the most electrically conductive metal, but copper is a close second. There are a wide range of copper tubing types available: Type L Copper Tubing, Type K Copper Tubing, and Refrigeration Soft Copper Tubing. These Copper Tubes are sold in copper tubing coils.

PEX piping is longer-lasting, less expensive and easier to install than copper piping. It also has a much lower expansion rate, which reduces noise as your system heats up, and makes it less likely to burst if the pipes freeze. When planning a project for either a plumbing or heating application, you can choose between PEX and copper;if you choose PEX, you will then have even more choices to make, including a fitting system. There are now more than 20 different brands of PEX piping for plumbing systems on the market. A few example brands are Rifeng, AquaPEX, HydroPEX, Viega, Watts, Zurn, etc. Typically, red PEX piping is used for hot water while blue PEX piping is used for cold water. Examples of PEX piping for heating are ThermaPEX, Rifeng, and Uponor hePEX.

After choosing between copper piping and PEX piping, you should then consider installing pipe insulation. This is a great option for either type. A good rule of thumb is to treat your PEX Pipe installation the same way you would copper pipe.

Both PEX and copper pipe lose a significant amount of heat to the air. As hot water passes through, the conductivity of the material pulls heat away from the water and then the air pulls that heat from the pipe. Energy is also wasted when frost forms on cold water plumbing, chilled water and air-conditioning lines. Whether your project involves your heating system, hot water plumbing or cold water plumbing, pipe insulation is a great, affordable way to utilize heat that is being wasted and reduce your energy bills. Not only does pipe insulation help lower your energy bills, but it starts at just a few dollars for a 6′ length, depending on the diameter needed.

There are two popular types of insulation, Therma-cel and Insul-lock, designed to limit heat loss, condensation and frost formation. Therma-cel is a flexible, polyolefin, thermal insulation. Therma-cel Pipe Insulation also slows heat loss on hot water plumbing. This insulation may be used with copper or PEX pipe. Insul-lock is another type insulation that works the same way but is pre-slit and self-adhesive, making it extremely easy to install. It is non-porous and non-fibrous to resist mold growth and guarantees a strong, durable seal without the risk of messy adhesives.

Good luck with your piping project. Hopefully, you have learned more about the differences between copper piping and PEX piping and the benefits of installing pipe insulation.

Source by Lauren O’Toole

Troubleshooting Kubota Generators

Kubota manufactures a wide variety of diesel engines. Ranging from fifteen to sixty horse power, these diesel engines power everything from tractors and skid steers to compressors and generators. A diesel engine only differs from much bigger machines in the volume and number of cylinders and the type of emission and throttle controls. Some Kubota diesel engines generate such an amount of exhaust without emission control is needed beyond a muffler for lessening engine noise.

Fuel

Whether they utilize biodiesel fuel or petroleum diesel, Kubota diesel engines run with the similar fuel system. Make sure to regularly check the fuel filter. Petroleum diesel and biodiesel could contain particulate pollutants that’ll quickly clog and fill up a filter, particularly if the generator works in a dusty place. This could cause no or intermittent engine operation.

Glow Plugs

In place of a spark plug, Kubota diesel engines utilize a glow plug to fire the air/fuel mixture. If the motor would not run or some cylinders would not fire, the glow plug needs replacement. Also, ensure the connection wires that give current to the plugs are working properly. To see a glow plug, detach it and hook the 2 power leads to the battery. They must glow red and hot. If not, change the glow plug.

Compression

Diesel engines should have sufficient compression for the engine cylinders to light the fuel. When this occurs you should check the timing to ensure that the cylinders are going through the complete length of the bore before the plug lights the fire. If not, then the air and fuel are only compressed and that leads to less power.

Starting

If the engine would not start, always start your troubleshooting process by looking at the battery for sufficient voltage. Check also the battery leads cables for proper connections. Too much corrosion on the leads will lead to voltage reduction. Without voltage, either the glow plugs or the starter will have sufficient current to operate properly.

Overheating

A Kubota engine is simply like a gas engine when it comes to coolness. A cooling fan and radiator should give coolant to the engine to maintain the cool temperature. Check the level of the coolant fluid and fill if needed. Check all the fittings and hoses as well for leaks. Lastly, ensure that the water pump is correctly circulating the water from the engine radiator to the engine block.

Source by Jack Kolbow

Vacuum Metalizing: A Cost Effective and Environmentally Friendly Alternative to Electroplating

If saving the environment and money are on your wish list while plating and coating for your needs, then vacuum metalizing can be your only option. You may want to have chrome plating and coating for your desired look, quality and durability of your products, but you cannot deny the heavy pocket pinch and the health and environmental hazards associated with it.

The acid used in chrome plating is a carcinogen; it involves the use of cyanide and can cause hydrogen embrittlement. This is a proven solution and an efficiently safe alternative to chrome plating. Vacuum metalizing equipment is used for a wide range of purposes to make things shine like chrome. From automotive and aeronautical industries to telecommunication industries and various electrical components and this is the safest and most cost-effective solution.

Does Vacuum Metalizing Compromise the Quality and Durability

This process was developed far back in the 1960s and since then has evolved and undergone crucial developments in its applications. Originally this process was developed for coating of the interior fittings like the dashboards, lights, armrests, etc. of automobiles. At that time the process did not involve an application of top-coat, which resulted in fast erosion of the chrome effect of the exterior, making it vulnerable to scratches.

But now the process has evolved and progressed and such chances of susceptibility are almost absent. It gives an absolutely brilliant metallic finish that can last for ages. Progress in this field has been so immense that the top-coat can be tinted to produce colored chrome effects and imitation gold effects. However, you cannot get the same durability as that of a chrome coating and finish but considering the cost-effectiveness and the durability it offers, is pretty satisfactory.

How is Vacuum Metalizing Done

It is a process where a non-porous substrate like plastic, metal or glass which gives a simulated chrome finish. An extremely thin layer of pure aluminium is evaporated onto the surface that requires coating under vacuum placed inside a vacuum chamber. Here an aluminium vapor cloud is created and when this cloud comes in contact with the other surfaces, it condenses and bonds on the surfaces to create a thin uniform metallic layer giving the desired chrome shine effect. Before the metalizing operation, the parts to be metalized are base-coated and baked in order to remove solvents from the base-coat and this ensures a hard and smooth finish to the parts. After the metalizing process is done, another protective top-coat is applied.

Wide Application

Vacuum metalizing can have wide applications. Electronics, telecommunications industries, computers, military, medical, aerospace, automobile, marine industries involve wide use of this applications.

This has become a common application now in various industries. Ecological responsibility and staff safety are given a priority in most industries nowadays and given the quality and durability of the products that this process ensures, most industries are choosing this as the safest option. There is a lot of places that deal with this and their vacuum metalizing equipment is of top quality. Check out the best deals before hiring.

Source by Prachetas Nair

The Pros and Cons of Low Energy LED Lighting

For most people, probably the biggest single factor against low energy LED lighting as a substitute for the soon-to-be-phased-out regular incandescent light bulb is the cost differential. There is no doubt that an LED equivalent light bulb (for example a 6w LED spotlight as a direct replacement for a 35w GU10 halogen lamp) is significantly more expensive than either the original or a CFL alternative.

There are however three important points to bear in mind about the higher price for low energy LEDs as compared to incandescent and energy saving CFL light bulbs.

First, the price difference reflects the fact that the use of LED for general purpose domestic lighting is still quite novel, though increasing manufacturing levels and consumer take-up will drive the price down dramatically once both come fully on stream over the coming months.

Second, and partially related to the observation above, is that the cost of LEDs drops by a factor of twenty over the course of each decade. This characteristic is reliably predicted by Haitz’s Law (very similar to Moore’s Law for computer chips and for similar reasons, principally because LEDs are, just like computer chips, pure electronic devices). Haitz also states that LED performance (amount of light per watt of electricity) increases tenfold over the same decade.

Third and perhaps most intriguing is the fact that as far as the cost of domestic lighting is concerned, the price of light bulbs is almost entirely irrelevant. It is an extraordinary yet easily provable fact that even if regular light bulbs were totally free and LED lights cost, let’s say something outrageous like $80 each, it would still be vastly more economical to purchase LED low energy lights.

The reason for this is simple: the cost of electrical lighting is the cost of the energy i.e. electricity. It matters not one jot what the actual light bulbs cost; it’s what it costs to run them that really counts. Also, since LEDs last for tens of thousands of hours (in practice, decades of use) you only need to pay the purchase price once, unlike regular bulbs which last only upto two thousand hours or just over one year.

The second biggest gripe about low energy LED lighting is light levels and quality, or in technical parlance luminosity and light color.

The concern about luminosity stems largely from historical notions of LED lighting applications such as LED Christmas lights and pocket torches which are clearly not capable of providing anything close to useable domestic lighting. However, you could right now purchase one of the latest Sharp Zenigata LED series of light bulbs which is rated at 80 lumens per watt (measure of luminosity).

To understand what this means, consider that a standard 40w incandescent bulb delivers about 360 lumens and a 60w bulb about 540 lumens, which gives a ratio of 9 lumens per watt. Anything that offers greater than 25 lumens per watt can be classed as an energy saving light bulb. Zenigata LED light bulbs consume 6.7 watts and thus produce 6.7 * 80 lumens per watt which is 536 lumens, on a par with the standard 60w incandescent light bulb.

So you could, right now, replace all your 60w light bulbs with Zenigata LED light bulbs rated at 6.7 watts and consume 1/10th (or 90% less) electricity. And remember Haitz’s Law? Because of performance improvements, eighteen months from now you should be able to obtain the same 60w worth of lighting from just 3 watts.

LED light, in common with CFLs, has tended to be a somewhat cool blue colour, whereas we are more accustomed to a warmer yellow white colour. This is something that is now commonly addressed with the use of colored phosphors (these do reduce luminosity but this is in turn compensated for by the ever increasing lumens per watt yields for LEDs).

The third factor that might be considered to weigh against low energy LED lighting is that the light emitted by an LED is intrinsically directional and doesn’t scatter in all directions the way that incandescent and fluorescent lights do. This is actually quite acceptable in a spotlight, flood light or bright reading lamp, but it’s not especially effective for emulating general ambient lighting such as a table lamp would provide. Though again, there are LED powered general lighting light bulbs becoming more commonly available that do a reasonable job here.

Two obvious plus points for low energy LED lighting are ease of retrofit and ecological credentials (other than simply saving energy).

LED lights are widely available for all common base fittings such as mains powered GU10 and 12v MR16 spotlights and the low energy standard base GU24 as well as regular bayonet mounts and Edison screw fittings. LED lights also don’t suffer from the many inherent problems associated with CFLs such as: noticeably poor start-up times; reduced lifespan caused by frequent switching on and off; and bulky unattractive bulbs.

But perhaps one of the most widely known advantages of low energy LED lighting over energy saving CFL light bulbs is that they don’t contain toxic mercury vapour or other unpleasant materials, and thus do not pose a serious health risk or require tiresome and expensive disposal procedures to protect the environment.

To sum up, the main perceived disadvantages of domestic energy saving LED lighting are cost and application (luminosity and color). Yet as we have seen, the cost of a light bulb is actually a red herring – the true cost of electrical lighting is the price of electricity and on this score ultra low energy LED lighting puts everything else, including energy saving CFLs, completely in the shade (pun intended).

As regards luminosity and light quality, LED lights on balance deliver a cleaner, sharper light than CFL light bulbs and offer far more flexibility in terms of color choice and brightness.

Finally, the biggest advantage that low energy domestic LED lighting has over its rivals is that the lighting industry itself regards domestic LED lighting as the future and can barely disguise its contempt for CFLs. Lighting giants such as Philips are on record as stating that they will not invest a single dollar further into CFLs and that their entire research and development efforts are now directed at domestic LED lighting technology.

Those who follow eco-technology trends are well aware that there is a world-wide phase-out of incandescent light bulbs already well underway and scheduled to complete within the next couple of years. Given international legislation to ban incandescent lighting and lack of support for the already dated and unloved CFL, it’s near certain where the future of lighting lies – with low energy LED light. And as advantages go, I’d say that one’s pretty compelling.

Source by Megan S Jones

When Do You Need to Wear Safety Goggles?

Safety goggles are a necessity for those who work in a place where there is a potential for eye injuries. It is important to wear the right kind of protective eye gear in environments where there are materials and chemicals being handled that can get into the eyes and damage them. In addition, some workplaces also require you to comply with OSHA requirements. it is very important that you protect your eyes and face against chemicals and radiological as well as mechanical irritants.

Maximum Protection

People who work in the construction industry and those who are involved in carpentry or medical care as well as electrical work are the ones that require maximum protection of their eyes. Even if you work in what is deemed a safe environment, it is important to protect your eyes from injuries. Here is a brief look as to why safety goggles are a necessity:

  • If you work in an environment where there is dust and metal as well as concrete or wood flying about, then you need protective eyewear
  • The same holds true for those who work in environments where liquid or gaseous chemicals are present
  • If you need to protect your eyes against radiation such as visible light or UV light or heat or even infrared and lasers, then you need protective eyewear
  • Safety goggles are also a necessity for those who are working in environments where there is presence of bloodborne pathogens such as HIV or hepatitis

OSHA Requirements

Your employer must shoulder the responsibility of providing you with the right kind of protective eyewear as laid down by the OSHA requirements. when choosing such items, it is important to look for certain features. These include:

  • The ability to withstand high impacts
  • The ability to protect your eyes and face by having a tight and form-fitting facial seal
  • The ability to protect your entire eyes against hazards that may be coming from any direction
  • The ability to be worn over your prescription glasses or contact lenses

Perfect Protection

Safety goggles that have the abovementioned features will proved perfect protection to your eyes. It is important that you remember to wear them at all times. The fact is the law states that you have to wear protective eyewear in any workplace where there is a presence of various eye hazards. Keep in mind that should you injure your eye, you will experience a lot of pain and in some cases, the damage may be permanent. So, it makes sense to protect your eyes at all times. It is also a good idea to keep in mind that eye injuries can happen at any time and they may also occur without any prior warnings. This is another reason to wear protective eyewear.

Safety the Number One Priority

It is important that your employer makes safety their number one priority at the workplace. If you would like to know whether your workplace requires the use of safety goggles, then you can consult the Advanced Safety & Health guidelines. It is also a good idea to consult a safety expert to find out whether or not you need to wear protective eyewear at your workplace.

Source by Young So

Winter RV Battery Storage

The two most common causes for RV battery failure are undercharging and overcharging.

Undercharging is a result of batteries being repeatedly discharged and not fully recharged between cycles. If a battery is not recharged the sulfate material that attaches to the discharged portions of the plates begins to harden into crystals. Over time this sulfate cannot be converted back into active plate material and the battery is ruined. This also occurs when a battery remains discharged for an extended period of time, like during storage. Sulfation is the number one cause of battery failure. The second leading cause of battery failure is overcharging. Overcharging batteries results in severe water loss and plate corrosion. With that said let’s look at how to properly store your RV batteries.

Before we talk about storing the batteries we need to talk about battery safety. Lead acid batteries contain sulfuric acid which is extremely corrosive and can cause severe burns or even blindness. And the hydrogen gas that batteries produce when they’re charging is very explosive. When you work around batteries you need to wear goggles and gloves, remove all jewelry and do not smoke or use any open flames.

Caution: If you accidentally get battery acid on your skin, flush it with lots of water and if it gets in your eyes flush with low pressure water for 15 minutes and call a doctor.

When you put the RV in long term storage it’s a good idea to remove the batteries and put them in storage too. This is quite simple to do. The first thing we want to do is visually inspect the batteries for any obvious damage. Any fluid on or around the battery may be an indication that electrolyte is leaking from the battery. A damaged or leaking battery should be replaced immediately. Whenever you remove any battery always remember to remove the negative terminal or cable first, and then the positive cable.

Battery Tip: When you remove a battery turn off the ignition switch, all electrical switches, and any battery disconnect switches before you disconnect the battery cables. Whenever you remove any battery cables label them first so you remember how they go back on the battery. When you reinstall the battery do it in the reverse order. Install the positive cable first and then the negative cable.

Clean the batteries with a 50/50 mixture of baking soda and water if necessary, i.e. use one pound of baking soda to one gallon of water. Now you can check the electrolyte level in each cell and add distilled water if necessary. The minimum level required is at the top of the plates. If it’s below the plates add enough distilled water to cover the plates before you charge the battery.

Test the battery state of charge with a voltmeter or hydrometer and charge any batteries that are at or below 80%. An 80% charge is approximately 12.5 volts for a 12 volt battery and 6.25 volts for a 6 volt battery. Lead sulfation starts when a battery state of charge drops below 80%. After charging the batteries check and fill each cell to 1/8 inch below the fill well with distilled water. Overfilling cells will cause battery acid to overflow.

Caution: Batteries should only be charged in a well ventilated area and keep any sparks and open flames away from a battery being charged. Check the electrolyte levels before and after charging batteries.

A discharged or partially charged battery will freeze much faster than a charged battery. Store the batteries in a cool dry place but not where they could freeze. Batteries in storage will loose a percentage of current through internal leakage. It’s not uncommon for a battery to discharge up to 10% a month when it is being stored. Cold temperatures slow this natural discharge process down and warmer temperatures speed the process up. Test the

stored battery state of charge every month and charge batteries that are at or below an 80% state of charge.

Completely charge the batteries before re-installing them next spring. For optimum performance you can equalize the batteries after they are fully charged. An equalizing charge is an increase in charging voltage similar to a bulk charge to convert any crystallized lead sulfate back into its original components.

If you decide to leave the batteries in the RV while it is in storage remember to check the state of charge monthly and charge any batteries at or below an 80% charge. Some RV converter multi-stage chargers and aftermarket chargers are designed to maintain a float charge on the battery without removing the batteries from the RV. Remember, for the converter charger to work the RV will need to be plugged in to electricity.

For more information on RV batteries check out our Deep Cycle Battery Care & Maintenance DVD.

Happy Camping,

Mark Polk

Copyright 2007 by Mark J. Polk, owner of RV Education 101

Source by Mark Polk

Types of Store Fixtures

Store fixtures are used for visual merchandising and display. Different types of store fixtures are slatwall fixtures, gridwall fixtures, clothing store fixtures, hangers, display cases, shopping bags, jewelry displays, gondola shelves and mannequins. Store fixtures offer maximum exposure to products.

There are different sizes and colors of slatwall store fixtures. Slatwall is also referred to as slatboard, slotwall or grooved board. Slatwall can be used to display clothes, accessories, equipments and jewelry. The different types of slatwall store fixtures are panels, hooks, faceouts, floor fixtures, wire displays, wire baskets, wire shelves, corner forms, brochure holders, and acrylic displays. Hangers are another type of store fixture used to display clothing. Different types of hangers are wooden hangers, metal hangers and plastic hangers.

Display case provides security to the retailer. There are economy style and aluminum frame style display cases. This includes full vision, half vision, open cases, jewelry and register stands. Other type of display cases are special tower, countertop, oak cases, pedestal cases, portable and custom fixtures. Different types of store fixtures are used for jewelry displays. This include store fixtures for necklace, bracelet, ring display, chain and jewelry watch. Different materials used in jewelry store fixtures are acrylic, metal and wood and velvet.

Other types of store fixtures are gridwall panel and gridwall hooks. They can be used on the wall or floor in any store. Grid wall panels can be customized. Gridwall store fixtures include wire shelves, shelf brackets, grid exhibit, mini grid, sign holders, connectors and floor fixtures. Shopping bags are another type of store fixtures. Different types of shopping bags are white craft bags, tinted bags, natural craft, shopping baskets and Christmas bags.

Store fixture collections are used to display collection of products. This includes designer collection, metal store fixtures, ladder system, chain link and golf display. Gondola shelves are used for heavy duty products. These are made of steel and can support heavy products. Different sizes of gondola shelves are available. Mannequins are dummies usually used to display clothes. Mannequins store fixtures include adult mannequins, children, flexible, sports and system mannequins.

Source by Jimmy Sturo

4 Reasons Why Gold Is An Amazing Metal And How to Recognise Fake Gold

These are just some of the reasons why gold is so amazing.

Plasticity

Gold is a soft, yellow metal with a beautiful lustrous sheen. It is the most malleable and ductile of all the elements. Gold is so malleable that it can be rolled into semi-transparent sheets and so ductile that it can be pulled into wires small enough to use in semiconductors. One ounce (28 g) of gold can be beaten out to 300 square feet. You could say gold is the Play-Doh of metals.

Conductivity

Gold is a very good conductor of heat and electricity. Among all precious materials, silver has the highest thermal conductivity and the highest light reflectance. Although silver is the best conductor, copper and gold are used more often in electrical applications because copper is less expensive and gold has a much higher corrosion resistance. Since gold never corrodes and can be moulded to any shape, it’s used to make long lasting electrical connectors in all types of devices.

Reactivity

Gold is one of the least reactive elements on the Periodic Table. It doesn’t react with oxygen, so it never rusts or corrodes. Gold is unaffected by air, water, alkalis and all acids except aqua regia (a mixture of hydrochloric acid and nitric acid) which can dissolve gold. In fact, gold’s acid resistance is one of the reasons why our acid assays are so accurate. Gold does react with halogens. It will, for example, react very slowly with chlorine gas at room temperature to form gold chloride, AuCl3. If gold chloride is heated gently, it will decompose to release the pure elements again. Gold is also resistant to most bases with the exception of potassium cyanide.

Energy Reflectance

Surface reflectance of a material is its effectiveness in reflecting radiant energy. It is the fraction of incident electromagnetic power that is reflected at an interface. Gold is a good reflector of electromagnetic radiant energy, including radio waves, infrared, and ultraviolet radiation. The characteristic optical properties of gold, combined with its complete resistance to attack in any surroundings and its ability to be applied as very thin films, make gold a very versatile material for diverse industries’ applications. For example, gold is often used in aerospace applications to provide protective coatings for satellite components and space suits.

As a refinery, we deal with high volumes of gold in all manner of shapes, weights, and purity levels. Thanks to our technologies we’re able to leverage several types of assays to authenticate the melt-value of anything a customer may bring us.

However, there are also several quick and easy ways to identify alloy from pure gold.

Discolouration: Pure gold does not tarnish, so carefully check for any discolouration. Even slight shade variations can reveal fake gold.

Magnets: Gold (like most other precious metals) is not magnetic. If the piece in question reacts to the magnet, it can only mean that iron, nickel or other ferromagnetic material is alloyed with the gold so it may be a lower karat than advertised.

Scratching: Even without acid, a simple scratch test is enough to uncover many types of fake gold. A Porcelain Scratch test can be performed by using an unglazed tile or ceramic plate and scratching the object on the tile. If it leaves a black streak, the item is not gold. If the streak is gold in colour, the item is likely to be gold. This may scratch the piece, but should not cause much damage.

Float test: Check the buoyancy of the item by dropping it in a glass of water. Real gold is dense and will sink, but many alloys will float. Also, if your piece will rust or discolour, then it’s plated or fake. Of course, this test is more effective on small samples, such as jewellery or alluvial flakes. Be aware that many metals designed to look like gold are still dense enough to sink, so even if the piece passes the float test, you should still try additional assays.

If uncertain, it is always a good idea to ask for a specialist consultation.

Source by Stewart Gillham

Essential Tips for Buying Micro Switches

Micro Switches are very important for any electrical appliance and they play a vital role in its sustainability. These switches can be found in many applications and are widely used in consumer and industrial devices. Let’s take a look at some essential tips to buy these units.

First things first

These switches are more commonly used in safety devices because of handling the circuit efficiently and that is why you must have noticed that doors are not closed when you are using it.

Microswitches are in demand these days. As time goes by, the demand for these devices is bound to increase because of the evolving technological era in which we are living in. Keeping this fact in mind, it is important to know about some smart ways of purchasing it.

There are many sellers available in the market to meet the extraordinary demand. Therefore, your decision of getting these switches in the right way and from the right channel is very important. Here are some tips that you should consider buying a micro switch.

Research work

Research plays a significant role in any purchase. It is like brainstorming ideas before pitching a business or strategic plan. The research you do before purchasing anything decides what you are going to get from that product.

Everything is available on the internet these days. So, just enter the type of switch you need and briefly describe the purpose for which you need that switch and the web will be at your service. You can lay down your constraints, requirements, and budget in front of you and decide after assessing all information online.

Techniques for Cost-Effective Purchase

The objective of a buyer must be to get the best quality micro switch without incurring a greater cost. You can certainly do this by following some principles. Firstly, see if there are any promotions available in the market. Another way of getting a cheaper microswitch can be a bit risky.

If you can afford to take a calculated risk, we would suggest you go for it. Branded switches are normally expensive and there are similar unbranded micro switches available in the market with the same specifications. This will need some research but your small effort can help you save some bucks.

Another smart way of making a difference is to buy them in bulk. This will help you save some margin but if you need micro switches for an experiment or some small project, then this technique is not advisable.

Test before you buy

If you are purchasing a micro switch online, testing can be an issue but many vendors offer a testing warranty on these switches. There are many ways of testing a switch. However, we will recommend that you use an OHM meter for testing it.

It is a reliable technique of testing any switch and if it is possible for you to manage this method of testing, we will prefer to use it. Besides that, you can also get these switches tested from the shops from where you are purchasing them. They normally have testing kits readily available in their shops.

Hopefully, these tips will help you opt for the best unit to satisfy your needs.

Source by Arthur Huang