Tag Ventilations

Mobile homes are often considered an economically effective housing solution. What is often not considered is the tremendous amount of off gassing from the mobile home itself and from products used in mobile homes that can send harmful chemicals into the air. This becomes an unhealthy situation quickly because of the initially tight seals, and lack of ventilation. Here are 5 ways to reduce the chemicals that mobile homes off gas; and reducing these chemicals will help you and your family stay healthy.

Avoid Carpeting If Possible

New carpet is infamous for the “new carpet smell”. That smell is often the off gassing of harmful chemicals such as formaldehyde. Without proper ventilation, you and your family are subject to formaldehyde vapors which can cause your eyes and nose to burn, sore throat, headache, dizziness, and nausea, and frequent exposure to higher than normal levels of formaldehyde has been proven to cause serious long-term health issues.

Older carpet is a haven for numerous pollutants such as dust mites, pet dander, and small particles of dirt and/or sand, all of which are difficult to remove with a regular vacuum, and go airborne with normal daily activity. These microscopic pollutants can greatly aggravate existing problems such as allergy and asthma, and can cause symptoms that just make you miserable such as sneezing, watery eyes, and congestion not unlike that of a cold.

Ventilate

Use a fan to move the air through your home, and if weather permits, open windows to help exhaust fumes from your home. It is important to change the air rather than to just re-circulate it.

Keep Temperature and Humidity Stable

Many of the offending chemicals such as formaldehyde are affected by increases in humidity and temperature. Keeping both humidity and temperature low will decrease the amount of formaldehyde that will off gas into your air.

Allow Products to Off Gas Elsewhere

If you are planning to purchase products such as new carpet or that are known to contain solvents, adhesives, exposed particleboard, ask that they be opened and allowed to sit in the warehouse to off gas before they are brought to your home.

Use an Air Purifier to Remove Chemicals

All homes continue to settle after they are built. When mobile homes settle the seals loosen and chemicals and materials that have been previously sealed are now unsealed and can evaporate into the air. Using an air purifier that is specifically designed to remove airborne chemicals such as formaldehyde will help insure that the indoor air you and your family breathe is the healthiest it can possibly be.

Source by Debbie Davis

Understanding HVAC systems

The heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) system is the respiratory system of any building. Its main purpose is to provide conditioned air i.e. air which is clean and odorless to breathe in a safe and comfortable environment. The HVAC system controls the quality, movement and temperature of the air and ensures that it is at a comfortable range.

According to their use, HVACs can be categorized into three types namely commercial HVACs, residential HVACs, and industrial HVACs. A better understanding of the HVAC system makes you realize the significance of regular maintenance to ensure its long-lasting performance and full benefits.

How Does Your HVAC System Work?

The HVAC system behaves in a repetitive cycle to fulfill its responsibility to provide heated or cooled air as needed. How does it do that? Consider the function of its components below.

Ventilation Systems

Ventilation systems are of three types – supply, exhaust, and balanced. The exhaust ventilation system makes use of exhaust fans for pulling air out of the home. It reduces pressure of the air inside and allows the natural flow of air outside. The supply ventilation system does it the other way round – it pumps air into the building in order to make the old, stale air leak out. The balanced ventilation system makes use of both supply and exhaust fans to push out old air and allow fresh air to come in.

Air Conditioning

The air conditioning system usually consists of two units, the inside unit known as the evaporator and the outside unit known as the condenser. The condenser is in the high pressure side of the system. The compressor spins the refrigerant into a high pressure gas and sends it to the compressor. It loses its heat and turns into a liquid. This liquid goes into the evaporator which is the low pressure side of the unit. As the pressure suddenly drops here, the refrigerant vaporizes and is transformed into low-temperature, low-pressure gas. As the air is circulated through the many tubes in the system, the heat is absorbed and cool air is circulated through the ventilation system. The repeated cycle provides continuous cool air.

Heating

Your HVAC system consists of a furnace and a ductwork that are connected together to provide a heat exchange. The system usually has a fan attached to pull the heat from the ventilation system and allow it to circulate in the building. A heat pump may be used to supplement the furnace as well but for central heat systems, it is essential. The pump moves heat from outside air into the evaporator and then, it is pumped into the ventilation system.

There are exhaust ducts, supply ducts and return ducts in the HVAC system. Each needs to be installed properly for the system to function efficiently. Regular maintenance of your HVAC system can help prevent poor ventilation and save you on long-term costs.

Contact your local expert Contractor to get quality maintenance services or to inquire further about your HVAC system.

Source by David Kagan

There is a lot of misinformation and foolish myths regarding insulated mobile home skirting. People have told me that they have heard that it will promote mold growth and that the underside of the home has to breath. Others have told me that they have heard insulated skirting doesn’t offer any advantages such as prevention of frozen pipes. I can comfortably and confidently tell you that if done properly, these myths are false.

Insulated skirting can be one of the best additions to your home. People who have struggled with frozen pipes year after year have stopped struggling after they installed insulated skirting. There are a few different types of skirting on the market but they all behave the same way and these principles are universal.

• Ventilation: Your home needs adequate ventilation during the warmer months so the underside can breathe. This is the only time of the year, when it is above 50 degress fahrenheit, that you need ventilation. Automatic vents that open and close are the best mainentance free option. The minimum required ventilation for a home that does not have a ground cover is not less than 1 square foot of vent per 150 square feet of floor space. If you have a ground cover, 6 mil poly plastic, you can reduce the requirement to 1 square foot to 1500 square feet of floor space. Please note: installation of the ground cover needs to be installed to a local building code and should be done properly.
• Insulating Strength – Whatever material you choose to use, make sure that the R Value meets at least a value of 8. You also want to make sure the outer material is weather resistant. A pre-made insulated skirting product is usually the best bet. It will be the most cost effective way to complete the product.
• Thermal Envelope – When installing an insulated product you need to make sure that the material goes all the way around the home. If you have a porch, deck, or addition attached to the house, make certain you install adequate material behind the structures to maintain a thermal envelope. You are capturing the warmth of the ground which is a constant 53 degrees all year round, and with out a complete installation, you will not capture it. If you stopped short of a porch, the warmth would escape to the outside. This is why your pipes will not freeze with a properly installed system.
• Durability – Insulated systems are typically 2 inches thick and are very strong. You will not suffer from wind blow outs like you may have encountered with non-insulated systems. Keeping critters out from under your home is also an important goal. The strength and durability of an insulated system will keep them out.

When done properly, mobile home insulated skirting will end your frozen pipe woes, cut down on utility bills, and offer a much longer lasting skirting compared to non-insulated systems.

Source by Mark P Krober

So You’ve Got Mold In Your Attic? Now What? Simple Strategies For Understanding and Correcting Attic Mold

(Note- Mold can be extremely toxic to your health and you may spread it around to other parts of the home where it will stay without proper clean-up, we suggest attic mold remediation ‘ attic mold removal ‘ should only be performed by a trained professional with strong credentials)

Attic mold is extremely common in our Northern climate. Attic mold is generally directly attributable to 3 basic causes:

1. Lack of adequate ventilation or improper ventilation.

2. Existing or past roof or flashing leaks.

3. Ice damming as a result of inadequate insulation and failure to incorporate “Ice Guard” along the eves.

4. Improperly exhausted bathroom fans and or dryer vents.

We will briefly discuss each problem and the appropriate remedy as well as covering the basic abatement strategies offered by “so-called” professionals and why our ‘recommended’ process makes more sense.

By far the most common cause of all attic mold is improper ventilation. Let’s start by explaining that in most attics the mold does NOT grow in the summertime. This is because during the spring summer and early fall months the daytime temperature of the attic is far to warm for the mold to effectively grow and the humidity levels inside the attic are typically too low to allow for mold growth. Most mold will only grow between 40 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Some molds that belong to a special class of mold (the ones usually affecting northern climate attics) called the Chrysophile molds will grow in temperatures as low as the 20’s.

HOW THE MOLD GROWS

During the winter months when we heat our homes, some of the heat is inevitably lost into the un-heated attic space. This hot air mass then moves upward where it will dissipate outside if the attic is properly vented. If however the attic is poorly vented the hot trapped air will encounter the cold surface of the underside of the roofing boards or sheathing. This hot -air- meets- cold-surface results in dew-point being achieved. This dew-point created condensation and is often more noticeable on the nails as the nails are more efficient at conducting the cold temperature from outside. The condensation then forms water droplets which can drip onto the floor of the attic or worse sometimes run down into the wall cavities below resulting in potentially “hidden ” mold which can be the source of frustrating to diagnose health problems.

Often a roof will have sufficient roof ventilation but the soffits (eves) are not vented. Even more common when a house receives new siding the siding contractor will install vented soffit panels giving the eves the appearance of being vented when in reality they are not, as no holes were ever cut into the plywood covering the bottom of the eves. Sometimes the attic is ventilated properly but an overzealous attempt to insulate has blocked the air flow from the soffits to the ridge preventing proper ventilation. An easy way to check whether or not the vents are there or are functioning properly is to go up into the attic on a sunny day, extinguish all lights and look for daylight coming in along the edges. A well ventilated attic should allow visible daylight in along the edges.

What is the best way to vent the roof?

Roof ventilation is divided into two categories: Incoming air and Outgoing air.

Incoming Air: The most effective way for air to enter the roof is through vents that are placed in the soffits along the eves. Continuous strip vents provide the most reliable ports as well as rectangular vents. Round ventilator plugs are easy to install but are usually to small to provide adequate air flow.

Outgoing air: Stale or heated air escapes through the top of the roof. There are many ways to achieve sufficient ventilation including: Ridge Vents, Turbines or Powered Vents, Box Vents and Gable End Vents. Continuous ridge vents are the preferred method for eliminating built up hot air but may not be sufficient to ventilate short ridged roofs like hip roofs.

Ventilating heated attics or cathedral ceilings properly is often neglected during initial construction. This often results in ceiling drywall growing mold on the back side when the builder fails to vent and baffle the area behind the ceiling insulation and drywall.

Roof leaks always need to be addressed by a professional roofer and special attention needs to be paid to flashings around chimneys and indeed any penetration found in the roof decking. Flashings often require maintenance between roof shingling jobs and are extremely important to maintain. Roof leak can often develop into festering mold problems both in the attic cavity or WORSE inside of hidden wall cavities in the home.

Ice Damming occurs along the eves immediately above the plate-line of the exterior walls. Leakage in this area easily penetrates into wall cavities where it can become trapped between exterior finish materials and interior vapor barriers. A surprisingly small amount of water can raise the relative humidity of a wall cavity to damaging levels. Mold growth may eventually become visible along the wall base as it penetrates from exterior to interior wall surfaces. More critically spore and VOCs (Volitile Organic Compounds) released by mold can aggravate serious health problems in the houses occupants. Especially at risk are the very young and the old as well as Allergy -sensitive or immuno-compromised adults. In some mild cases ventilation corrections are enough to cure the problem in severe cases the roof shingles must be removed and strips of “Ice – Guard” be installed along the eves to prevent damming. In severe cases the exterior wall drywall must be removed and the wall cavities treated as well.

Improperly vented bathroom fans: Bathroom fans and dryer vents can generate a lot of moisture. They should always be vented directly up and out through the roof. Often times builders or do it your selfer’s will discharge fans or dryer discharges directly into the attic, greatly increasing the overall humidity. Do-it-your selfer’s often try to connect more than one fan into a discharge and will commonly run the discharge out to the eves or soffits rather than straight up and out through the roof. The remedy is simple one fan one roof vent directly vertically up through the roof overhead. On the outside the vent has a hat and is not a risk for water leaks

HOW DO I TREAT THE MOLD?

Unfortunately there are as many “treatments” for mold as there are remediators out in the real world offering “mold remediation”. Attic mold problems are especially challenging for a homeowner to solve as the mold industry has no National Guides so the list of options is confusing and often indecipherable with the average “mold guy” promising the latest craze. Mold spores can grow at alarming rates. One mold spore can develop into 12 million in twelve hours! Also the mold is feeding on the boards, and what you can see with the naked eye are millions and millions of them clumped together. What you can’t see are the “roots” The organism itself. The roots of mold grow into the substrate at least 3/16 of an inch. What we think of as the mold the clumped spores are actually the fruit or reproductive body like an apple to an apple tree. You cannot hope to solve a mold problem leaving these roots and treating only the surface of the wood. Also the majority of the chemicals being used on the market today contain known cancer causing chemicals and worse do not work on porous surfaces (every surface in an attic). The mold certifying authorities recommend putting the attic under negative pressure. This means using expensive equipment to suck more air into the attic than escapes from it. The next recommendation is to remove the insulation into plastic bagged which are taped shut. Then to HEPA vacuum the attic boards trusses and ceiling. Next manually wash all of the same areas with a detergent solution. Finally to correct the ventilation issues.

The Problem: This is an extremely man hour intensive process that costs a ton of money. it also does nothing to address the spores (mold seeds) or to address the roots ( the organism itself). Additionally when you correct the ventilation you bring new spore into the attic every single day. The other contractors in the area use a variety of techniques that can be broken into three main groups: the fog and Encapsulators (spray and spray painters) the bleach and ozonators and the franchise users.

First group- the fog and encapsulators: by far the most common these contractors will tell you that all that is necessary is to go into the attic and fog a “magic” chemical and then to encapsulate the mold using a poisoned mold inhibiting paint. Many of these charlatans will not even admit that their encapsulant is a paint. Usually the paint has a heavy metal added to it like copper or tin or zinc. Sometimes they have a toxic chemical added to them to discourage mold growth.

The problem: These contractors almost exclusively use fungicides that are not sporicidal. This means that they do not kill spores and most of them will not penetrate a porous substrate (like wood). This means that when they apply the encapsulant they are applying it directly over the moldy roots. This is a huge no -no as the vapor barrier forming nature of latex paints can cause dew-point to be achieved between the paint and the wood itself. Have you ever seen what happens when you lay a piece of plastic sheeting or drop-cloth on the ground overnight in the summertime? Did you ever notice those beads of water or dew? That’s because the Earths temperature in the summertime is cooler than the outdoor air. Precisely what happens when you treat an mold attic with any kind of paint. The paint begins to de-laminate and I have seen mold growing directly on Mold-proof paint! We have had to re-treat over 40 of these attic mold jobs in the last year alone!

The bleach and ozonators: these contractors will go into the attic and spray bleach onto the wood. The reason is to remove the stains, many of these companies will not admit they are using bleach! Just ask them what the active ingredient is in their “stain remover” if it is sodium hypochlorite ” its bleach. These contractors usually refuse to warranty their work and they will claim that the Ozone cannons they use will turn the spores into ash.

The problem: Bleach has an ion structure that prevents it from penetrating into a porous substrate like wood, this means it leaves the roots un-harmed. It also releases a powerful environmental toxin called Dioxin. While the ozone cannons will destroy the chemicals off gassed by the bleach this technique leave the complete root structure intact and guarantees that if you ever have a new water leak the mold will go right into full production and the mold problem will immediately return.

The Franchisors: These contractors have bought into a “system” most often using toxic chemicals which can harm you and your family.

The problem: Often their warranties aren’t worth the paper they are printed on as they only agree to replace the chemicals if they fail. Usually the fine print in the warranty makes it worthless. Often these are money seekers who use low dollar labor as the owners bought into the franchise so they didn’t have to work on the job (just like subway shops) I discovered to my surprise about 6 years ago that the chemicals that were being used by my so-called competitors (and indeed by most of the industry) not only DIDN’T WORK on porous surfaces… which is about EVERY surface that mold would grow on in a house. I also figured out that most of these chemicals contain NO ingredients that KILL the spores (the most important but hardest things to kill) and also …that they leave behind RESIDUAL TOXIC CHEMICAL POISONS that in some case are WORSE than the poisons the MOLD makes!

Yikes! I found this out the hard way, cause in the beginning, believe it or not, I used the same old chemicals that everyone else in the industry STILL USES! And you know how I found out? I had three “special Ladies” that got sick from the chemicals I used in their homes. I call these ladies “special” because due to living with extremely TOXIC mold, they developed a RARE condition called Multiple Chemical Sensitivity Disorder. Ever heard of it ? I hadn’t. I can honestly say that I thought they were trying to get money back for a job WELL DONE. But…

Since I had three of them in a row, I decided to try and see if there might be anything to their claim of sickness. I discovered that their noses worked actually much BETTER than a “regular” persons nose (someone without multiple Chemical Sensitivity Disorder). HMMM! I began to theorize that maybe I was POISONING ALL OF MY CUSTOMERS, but our “regular noses” just couldn’t smell it. I quickly began to research. Just what was in those chemicals? After all, they were EPA approved and biodegradable. What I discovered truly SHOCKED THEN HORRIFIED ME…

The EPA routinely approves products that contain known carcinogens (those are CANCER CAUSING chemicals) … I was AGHAST! I quickly realized that I need to do some research and change the chemicals that I used -FAST! So I got together with some of the countries top scientists. I met many very, very smart people who had already devoted their ENTIRE LIVES to the cause. I read TONS of material about mold and the different ways to KILL MOLD. I took ALL of the good ideas that I learned from all these sources and EXPERTS and… Then I FUSED them all together into a system that is absolutely LETHAL to mold but remains SAFE for your entire family! In fact it leaves behind NO known residual poisons that can make people sick. It cost me a FORTUNE to do. Our System: The first thing we do is isolate the attic from the rest of the house. Next we SATURATE all of the moldy trusses and sheathing with a disinfectant the uses the amazing power of Hydrogen Peroxide natures miracle disinfectant. The reason we start with this is when mold is senses it is being attacked it releases its spore into the air, a phenomenon called bursting or sporulation. Hydrogen Peroxide is unique among the mold killing chemicals as it is the only liquid I know that will completely destroy a spore (mold seed). This way we kill the spores before they can spread all over. Next we apply the stain removing solution. This is absolutely a must, because while truly only cosmetic in nature, failure to apply the stain remover will result in untrained eyes (home inspectors ) believing that the mold is still active. Next and most important to the warranty and long term efficacy of the process we actually impregnate the wood with an environmentally friendly solution of borate called ENVIROTECH WP. This is made from extremely finely ground and specially designed for dissolving borax a cousin to the old fashioned 20 mule team we use in our laundry. This product is absolutely amazing. It was designed to penetrate the substrate a full inch (remember mold roots only grow 3/16’s of an inch into the wood). It not only prevents all hosts of decay and dry rot fungi but it also prevents wood boring insects carpenter ants and termites.

Imagine you get a complete two for one bonus mold proofing and bug proofing in one fell swoop! Then we even dry fog the powdered ENVIROTECH WP all over the insulation. Lastly I discovered that the scientists at Los Alamos national laboratory have extensively studied how to decontaminate a civil facility like a house that has been contaminated by a spore based pathogen like toxic mold. The scientists concluded that if you only follow the guidelines recommended for mold that you will leave the structure contaminated with spore. They conclude that in order to fully decontaminate the structure/ area it is absolutely necessary to fill it full of toxic levels of a reactive gas like ozone. While other mold guys are still using poisonous ozone gas we use a specialty gas called ARAN. Which is a gas made of isotopes of pure oxygen that go all the way up to O14 which is far more reactive and far less poisonous to people. This gas penetrate the nooks and crannies and crevices in the attic where the liquid based chemicals/products can’t penetrate guaranteeing the destruction of any spores we remediators might have missed because we can’t see them (ten thousand spore can fit on the head of a pin). Finally we fog out our staging areas and any other areas of the property we’ve utilized guaranteeing we completely eliminate all threats to occupants.

So to recap:

1. Kill the mold with a special Hydrogen Peroxide based disinfectant.

2. eliminate the stains.

3. impregnate the wood and insulation with a non-toxic borate solution that prevents mold wood borers carpenter ants and termites.

4. Gas out the rest of the attic to eliminate the spore we missed.

This process is far more effective and contains more steps than any other company in our east coast area. We are so sure of it we offer the very best warrantees in the industry to protect our customers liabilities.

You Can’t Imagine How Many Times I’ve Heard Of Mold Re-occurring After Expensive Treatments From Basements STILL leaking following Expensive Mold Clean Up Projects and Attics Having Uncorrected Ventilation issues After Being Treated.

Attic Mold Remediation or Attic Mold Removal Should Be Performed By A Certified Trained Professional With Proper Protection, and Environmental Controls.

I hope This Article Saves You From Throwing Good Money Away, and risking your Health on failed, phony methods

If you’re looking for someone who offers these services in your area, Click here

Sincerely,

Source by Charles Boday

The terminology of this process is often used for HVAC. HVAC is Heating Ventilation and air conditioning service. It is used to give a freshness life.

H-Heating

Heating is mainly used in winter areas. It will maximize the temperature by the thermal energy and produce the heat. Cooling process is similar to heating but it will minimize the temperature by the thermal energy.

V-Ventilation

Ventilation is an air circulation process from the open space and enclosed space. It is very helpful and safety in case of fire. It is mainly used for adding an external fresh air and maintains a gas

AC – Air conditioning systems

The main process of HVAC are controlling the temperature and filtration of air and then supply the outside air for controlling oxygen and carbon dioxide in the space. These are all the features of dusted heating ventilation air conditioning Sydney. Commercial air conditioning range is using the window AC and split system. This process will maximize the relative humidity by increasing the water vapour.Dehumidifying is similar to same process but it will remove the water vapors.

This service is used to give a comfort condition for human beings to feel a good. Cooling service is one of the important needs for human begins in this modern world. Human begin have a professional work so they can not feel good in comfort. This service is very helpful for all that time. Because room temperature become very high and body heat will combine. So they feel an uncomfortable mind.this process is very useful for human begins in home of office. Fresh air is free from dirt particles, bacteria and unwanted pollution of smokes. Windows must be closed in office rooms and house room sectors. The noise was reduced while using the types of services.

Air conditioner installation noise is very low. This will give the nice sleep at every time and maintaining the peaceful in cinema theatres and running hospitals. Any noise inside the room should be reduced by sound controlling facilities. Industrial air conditioning will take the fresh air inside the room at any time by opening the room. This service is mainly used to remove the warm air from particular place and rotates it back after cooling it. This is all the main process of cooling things in heating process.

Source by Paul Micky

The heating, ventilation, and air conditioning system in any establishment plays a very important role in making it a place that is conducive for work and progress. The HVAC system has a number of functions and contrary to what many people may think, it does not merely work as a temperature regulator. In this article, the different functions of heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems will be explored.

Aside from keeping the temperature at a comfortable level, HVACs also work to make the air around a certain place to be of good quality. Furthermore, they regulate the humidity and airflow as well. The following is a summary of each of the different actions performed by these systems:

Heating

As earlier mentioned, HVACs are used to control the temperature especially during extreme climate or weather conditions. When it is too cold outside, the system will try to warm up the air inside with the use of a heater. For this there are two kinds: the centralized and local heaters.

Ventilation

In any establishment or property, proper ventilation is essential. HVACs provide proper ventilation by purifying or cleansing the air that circulates within the space. Carbon dioxide is eliminated and is replaced with oxygen so that people within the area are breathing in healthy air.

Air Conditioning

Just as HVACs regulate extremely cold temperatures, they also control the opposite. When the weather is too warm, the air conditioning unit of the system will cool down the air and block impurities so that people are inhaling air that is free of dust and dirt.

Having a HVAC system is more energy efficient than having a separate unit for each of the primary functions. However, in order to maintain its level of efficiency, you have to do your part by having it regularly serviced by professional heating, ventilation and air conditioning contractors. This is a better option than neglecting your maintenance duties for a long time, and end up paying big for a major repair. That is of course apart from the inconvenience and discomfort that a damaged system brings.

To be able to fully maximize the functionality of HVACs, they have to be properly installed by a professional HVAC company. Make sure that you consult the unit manufacturer as they may have a technical support team that will be able to properly assist you in the proper installation, maintenance, and repair of your unit. Don’t hesitate to ask for service plans that may last you a couple of months’ servicing as this will be a good way to save up on servicing expenses. Aside from that, you are also assured of well-trained and capable technical personnel who will see to it that your unit is always in excellent condition. Always keep in mind that HVACs are a long-term investment that will greatly benefit you or your business, especially if you are consistent in carrying out the necessary steps to keep them in optimum function. Take the necessary actions now to ascertain that the benefits are maximized for long-term.

Source by Cedric P Loiselle

Explosion Proof Exhaust Fan is basically a spark resistant ventilation system, designed to perform the task of providing ventilation and controlling the overall temperature inside a room or factory unit. These units are installed on the walls and are available on the market in many different models of explosion proof exhaust fan ventilation systems. There are factories and manufacturing plants is which highly inflammable gases along with vapors as well as finely crushed dust particles are present. These substances are generally created as a result of the manufacturing process and some of them may even contain highly ignitable fibers as well. Due to the presence of these substances the overall atmosphere at the factory unit becomes hazardous and is highly prone to accidents or various kinds of explosions. In such hazardous locations a high quality air exhaust and ventilation system is necessary which helps in keeping the overall inside atmosphere safe. This can easily be achieved by installing an explosion proof exhaust fan.

Explosion Proof Exhaust Fan Installation Guide

The market is full of wide variety of these fans but all of them require almost the same installation procedures and guidelines. However one of the most important considerations is which type of explosion proof exhaust fan will be suitable for you will depend upon the type of hazardous or inflammable gases are used or produced as by-products in your manufacturing unit. One of the most important points to be kept in mind before installing this system is you must install a duct system for providing a safe passage for the gases and hazardous fumes to escape out of the factory unit. It will be best if you first go for installing a duct system before thinking about mounting the ventilation system.

Step 1 – First and foremost step in installing is fixing the exact spot that should be high enough for allowing the gases to escape with ease. Also consider whether a duct system will be installed or not as with the help of this system you can easily provide safe passage for gases and fumes to escape. It is recommended to install the duct system before installing the ventilation system. The system should be installed in such a way that the direction of the ventilated air is away from the structure. Depending upon the overall size of the fan you can either install it on the wall or the ceiling.

Step 2 – The second step is to make an opening as per the dimensions of the fan. For getting the work done in a precise manner, mark the spot along with the holes to be drilled and on the basis of it provide an opening and install accordingly.

Step 3 – Make sure that the wall is capable to bare the weight of the system. If it cannot bare it, consider installing wooden planks as they can easily be cut and even provide support to the system.

Step 4 – Once you have finished with opening the hole, install the system by screwing it and do all the necessary inspections before the final wiring has to be done.

Step 5 – Once you have installed the system, start working on installing the wiring by providing a high quality switch and power supply connection. Pre run the system for performing the necessary tests and check the effectiveness of the installed system.

Source by Aamir Waheed Siddiqui

Air changes are a simple way of demonstrating how much air needs to be moved into or out of a room to rid it of excess moisture, humidity and resulting problems with black mould. Read on to find out how it works.

Mould and condensation are caused by excess humidity in the air, so to prevent them we need to replace the air in the room with “clean” air, unladen with moisture. But when looking into the expansive world of ventilation, there are lots of options when it comes to power and throughput – so what’s right for you?

When talking about what’s required for a given space, you will hear ventilation experts refer to “air changes” or “air changes per hour”. This simply means how many times per hour the volume of air in the room is cycled through the ventilation system. Remember, you won’t see fans specifying their air changes! This depends on the size of your room.

Here’s a simple example:

Imagine a room measuring 3 metres in all directions, with a single extractor fan for ventilation.

The volume of your room is 3metres x 3metres x 3metres = 27 metres cubed. There are 1000 litres in a cubic metre, so another way to state the volume of your room is 27,000 Litres.

If one air change per hour is needed, the extractor will need to move 7.5 Litres of air a second. (27,000 / 60 / 60, or 27,000 Litres divided by 60 minutes in an hour, divided by 60 seconds in a minute)

If the room needed two air changes per hour, we’d need 15 Litres per second to pass through the fan. (27,000 x 2 / 60 / 60)

So when thinking of replacing or installing ventilation, you’ll need your tape measure and a calculator handy. Remember if you’re not shifting enough air, you’re not going to solve that mould or moisture problem.

So how many air changes does your room need? This list shows the recommended air changes for different types of room:

-Bathrooms and shower rooms 3 – 8.

-Cafes 10 – 12.

-Dining Rooms 8 – 12.

-Cellars 3 – 10.

-Conference rooms 7 – 10.

-Entrance halls, corridors 7 – 10.

-Garages 6 – 10.

-Production kitchens 20+.

-Laundries 10 – 15.

-Offices 4 – 6.

-Restaurants 8 – 12.

-Shower rooms (sports halls) 10 – 15.

-Toilets (public) 10 – 15.

-Workshops 6 – 10.

-Laboratories where gases and/or chemicals are used 10.

It follows that the more moisture that is produced in a room, the more air you will need to move. If we assume our room in the first example is a bathroom, we can see that for low usage the list above indicates 3 air changes per hour will be needed, indicating that our fan will need to be able to move 22.5 litres per second.

Source by Adam Page

As previously mentioned, trickle vents are an excellent way of reducing condensation in rooms that are poorly ventilated, as well as an excellent way of maximizing airflow. Most window systems are compatible with these vents, and even if the window frame is not compatible, the vents can still be fitted to it independently. Some may want to improve the aesthetics of the window, and in this case a window board receptor can be installed. These are compatible with most UPVC windows and provide an excellent look to the windows. Those who are still in the process of building their home should first ensure that the contractors hired have no problems fitting UPVC windows, before considering trickle vents or board receptors.

Let us get back to trickle vents however, and see what some of the advantages of having them installed are. It is well known that building regulations state that adequate means of ventilation is required in any home or building. It is also well known that poor ventilation in rooms can have consequences on the health of those living in those rooms. Proper air circulation is mandatory in all livable rooms of the house, as microscopic organisms contaminate the air, due to the moisture naturally produced in a home, as well as mould that starts forming from condensation. Living in a mouldy room where the air is contaminated with dust mites and other microscopic organisms is a major health issue, and proper ventilation is the only way to prevent that from happening. Such micro organisms can lead to lung conditions, depression, and even heart conditions, if left unchecked.

Opening the windows regularly is a good way to ventilate, and sometimes the only way to ventilate for those who do not have trickle vents, yet have sealed windows that prevent air from entering into the room. Previously, before sealed windows became common in most homes, ventilation was provided by the tiny gaps present between window frames and the building structure. Since that is no longer the case, a trickle vent is an excellent ventilation solution. These are usually placed at the top of the window frame, and can be controlled. This means they can be opened to allow fresh air in and polluted air out, or they can be closed. That sounds just like a regular window, but the advantage is that the vents can be left open at all times, even when away on holiday, as opposed to windows that should be closed when the house if left empty. Even those windows that have a night latch should be closed at night or when the house is empty for longer periods of time, due to the security risk they pose.

Also, unlike a regular window, a trickle vent does not contribute significantly to heat loss. That means it does not really matter if it is left open at all times, because the difference in temperature is negligible. There are no disadvantages from installing such a vent to the window frame, and they can even be made to work along mechanical fans, for when more ventilation power is needed.

With a long list of important advantages such as improved security, reduced health issues, and reduced heat loss, trickle vents are certainly something worth considering. Most UPVC windows are compatible with them, and good trickle vents have an excellent design and are completely unobtrusive. Since building regulations state that proper ventilation is required in livable spaces, such vents are not only the cheapest solution, they are also the easiest to install. Just about any window board should be suitable and installing the vents should not be complicated for good contractors. As long as they know a thing or two about fitting UPVC windows, they probably also know how to install a trickle vent. After the successful installation of the vents though, a definite improvement in the quality of air should be felt, especially if the room had no ventilation before, except for when the window was open. Especially those who suffer from allergies should feel a major improvement in the quality of their sleep, and reduced allergy symptoms. Remember that proper ventilation can truly be a life saver, in some cases.

Source by Chris Coxon

Too often, we portray energy efficiency as something that results from purchasing one product over another. After all, if you’re looking for a way to make your home more energy efficient, you’ll soon encounter a bastion of advice that focuses on achieving energy efficiency by implementing energy efficient kitchen appliances, doors, windows, air conditioners etc. In some cases, this straightforward portrayal of energy-efficiency as something results from product purchases is true; if you want to use energy-efficient kitchen appliances, then you need to purchase energy efficient kitchen appliances, plain and simple. But when it comes to systematic energy-efficiency concerns like air conditioning, making your home as energy efficient as possible has more to do than with purchasing an energy efficient product. In the case of air conditioning, there are techniques that you can employ that will enhance the energy savings that begin with implementing an energy efficient air conditioning unit. Below, we list two such techniques.

Natural Ventilation

Natural ventilation relies on natural wind and what is known as the “chimney effect.” Working best in cooler climates, natural ventilation is also an option in warmer places during certain parts of the year, such as southern states that experience pleasant fall temperatures for extended periods of time. The chimney effect occurs by convection when cool air enters a dwelling form the first floor or basement, absorbs heats and then rises through the rest of the dwelling to eventually exit through the highest level of windows. Natural ventilation works best in homes with cathedral ceilings and windows located near the highest points of the house. But landscaping can also have an impact on natural ventilation, with natural and manmade obstacles that prevent air from entering low-level windows decreasing its effect.

Window Fans

Window fans are one of the oldest modern methods for cooling a house. But their low energy usage combined with their ability to achieve a vacuum-like cooling effect makes them a valuable cooling element during tepid weather. In multi-level houses, you should place a window fan on the highest level and open windows on the lowest level. As with natural ventilation, window fans should not be used a replacement for an energy-efficient air conditioner, but as an occasional way of keeping your house cool on days when the temperature is cooler outside than it is inside. Using natural ventilation and window fans also offers a way to save wear on your energy efficient air conditioner. For formal ideas on how to combine natural ventilation and windows fans with energy efficient air conditioners, speaking with an air conditioning service that specializes in air conditioning repair and energy efficient heating and cooling solutions is a good idea.

Source by Brian Figlioli